Visit North Korea’s Border: What To Expect On a DMZ Tour from Seoul
Curious about North Korea? Well, the Demilitarized Zone, known as the DMZ (한반도 비무장 지대), is the closest you can safely get to the world's most mysterious country, without actually crossing the border. If you'll be visiting South Korea, a tour from Seoul to the DMZ should definitely be on your radar.
On a half-day tour in the Demilitarized Zone (DMZ), you can see North Korea from the Dora Observatory rooftop and explore a secret infiltration tunnel built by North Korea, while gaining insight into the history and legacy of the Korean War.
The DMZ holds the gripping, tragic, and recent history of the Korean Peninsula's division between North and South. Surprisingly, it's also become one of South Korea's hottest tourist spots, showing up as a top result for "Seoul tours" or "South Korea tours" on popular travel websites like GetYourGuide and TripAdvisor. In fact, before the pandemic hit, the DMZ used to welcome around 5,000 visitors every day! Even now, with stricter rules in place, it's still very busy, with 60 buses carrying 2,640 tourists daily as of August 2023.
So, should you hop on a DMZ tour when visiting Seoul, South Korea? What can you expect? How do you arrange a visit? In this blog post, I'll give you the lowdown on what to expect and answer the most common questions about visiting the Korean Demilitarized Zone.
Views of North Korea from the roof of Dora Observatory in the DMZ
Table of Contents
Views of North Korea from the rooftop of Dora Observatory in the DMZ
What is the Korean Demilitarized Zone (DMZ)?
The DMZ is a 250-kilometre-long and 4-kilometre-wide buffer zone that separates North and South Korea. Established in 1953 after the Korean War, this heavily fortified area represents an armistice agreement between the two nations. Basically, this means that they couldn't come to a peace agreement, so they established a buffer zone between the two warring nations. Still today, there is no peace treaty between North and South Korea.
Today, the Korean demilitarized zone is among the most militarized areas in the world, complete with military checkpoints, heavy surveillance, barbed wire fences, and a high concentration of nearly one million landmines (NPR's All Things Considered). The DMZ is administered by the United Nations with both North and South Korea and the presence of the U.S. military.
The village of Taesung, with a population of just 197, is technically located in the demilitarized zone but is fully administered by South Korea. These residents tend to agriculture here, mostly growing rice (Taesung Journal, NYT). You can buy their goods, like wine, chocolate and model ration packets, from one of the DMZ gift shops you'll surely encounter during your tour. Besides these villagers, tens of thousands of South Korean and American military personnel line the demilitarized zone.
From inside the Peace Gondola in the DMZ area
What to Expect On Your DMZ Tour
In this section, I'll walk you through an average DMZ tour itinerary and share some helpful tips about timing and what to bring.
Your DMZ Tour Itinerary
There is a popular tour itinerary since tour providers are somewhat limited in where they can and cannot take tourists. Therefore, almost every DMZ tour from Seoul will follow a similar itinerary, give or take some stops and a different order.
The main difference is that some group tours stop at the Peace Gondola while others stop at the Majang Suspension Bridge. My friend Hannah and I opted for the tour with the Peace Gondola add-on, whereas my friend Nika, who went a few days later, did the tour with the Majang Suspension Bridge. We concluded that the tours were almost identical except for this stop, and we shared a similar positive experience with our GetYourGuide tours.
This itinerary information is based on my experience booking online with the DMZ tour called "From Seoul: DMZ Tour with Tickets and Optional Peace Gondola" with VIP Travel via the GetYourGuide app:
The Majang Suspension Bridge is an alternative DMZ your option to the Peace Gondola. Thanks to Nika for the photo!
Pick-up Point in Seoul:
The app allows you to select a pick-up point. We chose the one by Hongik University metro station since it was just a few minutes from our Airbnb. The tour provider sent me a WhatsApp message the day before to confirm the meeting point and time. We had to be there by 8 AM, but the pick-up time will vary depending on your tour and meeting point. Our guide, Jenny, was easy to find at the meeting point.
Drive to the DMZ:
Our tour started on time and it was a short 45-minute drive from Seoul to the DMZ in a comfortable, air-conditioned coach. All large group tours will have both a bus driver and a tour guide. Your guide will tell you his or her name (or their "English name"), which will be written on a sign on the front of the bus, and everyone on the tour will wear a badge with that name to avoid leaving with the wrong group at any stop.
Imjingak Park and Tourist Information Center:
The first stop was in the large car park of this tourist information centre located about 7 kilometres from the border between the two Koreas. Here, our tour guide collected everyone's passports from the bus and went inside to queue to arrange a DMZ entry time for our tour bus. I know it may feel strange to leave your passport with your guide, but it is the normal procedure here.
Several tour busses are parked at the Imjingak Tourist Information Center, where guides register visitors and get their group’s DMZ entry time
Meanwhile, tourists are free to wander around, there is the Peace Bell on the rooftop, a gift shop inside, restrooms and some places to eat. Strangely, there is also a small amusement park next to the large parking lot.
Imjingak Park, built in 1972 to console separated families, is also located here and you can find a war memorial, a pond in the shape of the Korean peninsula, historical artefacts, the Peace Train and see Freedom Bridge, used by prisoners of war who were repatriated from North Korea.
The Peace Bell located on the roof of Imjingak Tourist Information Centre
Once our timeslot was confirmed, our tour guide met back up with us, returned our passports and gave us a new meeting time. Those who opted in for the Peace Gondola then had time to take it, as the entrance is also located there.
Paju Imjingak Peace Gondola:
The Peace Gondola is a short 850-metre-long trip which provides a view of the DMZ area over the Imjin River and U.S. Military Camp Greaves. Each gondola can board up to 10 passengers, but there was almost no one there the day we went, and we were alone in our gondola.
View of the Imjin River from the Peace Gondola in the DMZ
View from the Peace Gondola in the DMZ
Once you get off the gondola, across the Imjin River, you'll be in a building with gift shops and cafes. When you exit the building, there are art displays and benches to the right, or you can walk up the hill to the museum. The museum was small but insightful.
Overall, the gondola was not particularly special, but it was a way to use our time while waiting.
The DMZ museum on the other side of the Imjin River after taking the Peace Gondola
The arrival point of the Peace Gondola, across the Imjin River in the DMZ
Third Tunnel of Aggression:
This is where the tour got interesting for us. South Korea is aware of four partial tunnels that North Korea has dug beneath the border. The Third Tunnel, discovered in 1978 after a North Korean defector warned South Korea about it, is the only one near Seoul which is open to tourists.
Each DMZ tour stop has a dedicated building and small museum
Before entering the infiltration tunnel, your tour guide will show you some mockups so you can understand where exactly you are and what you'll be visiting. There is a DMZ exhibition hall with more information and images, as well as a theatre with a short video, to help deepen your understanding.
Before visiting the third infiltration tunnel, visitors stop in a small theatre to learn about the history of the DMZ
The tunnel has been altered and widened at some points to accommodate tourists today. Before going in, you'll have to put all of your belongings into a locker, including your purse, phone and any cameras. No photography or videos are allowed in the tunnel. Then, you'll get a hard hat and walk down the path.
NOTE: The tunnel is quite narrow and steep at some points, so it may not be for you if you're claustrophobic or asthmatic.
Our guide, Jenny, explains the history of the third infiltration tunnel before we enter
It starts with a purpose-made wide 358-metre pathway down into the tunnel. Then, you can walk the length of the tunnel, about 435 metres, situated 73 metres (240 feet) below ground. The tunnel itself is 2 metres wide and tall but the size varies throughout. I'm 5'9" and was happy to have the helmet because I hit my head quite a few times!
Going into the third infiltration tunnel after learning about how it was made really helps you sympathise with the plight of North Korean soldiers who were forced to create it without any modern technology - or basic labour rights.
The DMZ has some strange photo opps throughout, like this model at the third infiltration tunnel
Dora Observatory:
The bus driver then took us to Mount Dora where we walked up a small hill to Dora Observatory, which offers a panoramic view of the North Korean city of Kaesong and the propaganda "Peace Village."
Binoculars on the roof of Dora Observatory in the DMZ allow visitors to see more clearly into North Korea
While you can't see much detail with the naked eye, the scenic view from the roof of Dora Observatory is lush green. With the knowledge that this is an isolated country suffering greatly from poverty and hunger, it's also somewhat haunting to look at. Using the binoculars, and with the help of a good tour guide like Jenny, you can spot North Korean propaganda from here, like signs about how great North Korea is and gigantic statues of supreme leaders. You might also see military personnel at outposts or farmers at work.
A theatre style room in the DMZ’s Dora Observatory provides a panoramic view of North Korea
With the binoculars available at Dora Observatory, our guide also helped us spot the two flag poles in the distance: a 100-metre-tall South Korean flag pole and just across the border a 160-metre-tall North Korean flag pole. Apparently, they battled to be taller than the other for years, until South Korea finally left it at 100 metres and North Korea kept going.
A 160 metre tall North Korean flag pole seen from binoculars at the DMZ’s Dora Observatory
It was a beautiful day and Dora Observatory was our favourite stop on the tour.
DMZ Gift Shops:
The gift shops at your various stops in the DMZ Korea are kind of wild. As it turns out, the DMZ has some of the most fertile land in the Korean peninsula, and the farmers who tend to the land here are well rewarded for working in such a high-risk area.
DMZ liquor and “ration packets” sold at gift shops in the area
The DMZ gift shops sell all sorts of unexpected goods produced in the area, including DMZ wine, chocolate, liquor, rice and soya beans. They even sell novelty "ration packets" or freeze-dried foods that imitate what soldiers would eat. You can also find all of the usual gift store items with DMZ written on them, like hats, t-shirts, mugs, etc. The home-grown products are one thing, but I can't imagine sporting a t-shirt from a war buffer zone!
DMZ chocolate bullets and grenades sold at gift shops in the area
Our final stop was at a rest area so we could grab a bite to eat, try popular soy ice cream, and of course visit another gift shop.
A cafe, ice cream and gift store stop before leaving the DMZ
Drop off:
Finally, the bus driver drove us back to Seoul, and each person's drop-off point was the same as their pick-up point, so we got off at Hongik University metro station around 2 PM and went for lunch in that area. Admittedly, we were quite hungry because there wasn't a dedicated lunch stop on our tour.
Our tour guide, Jenny, provided helpful information and context throughout our DMZ tour
What to Bring on Your DMZ Tour
Once you select and book your DMZ tour, don't forget that:
You must have your passport on you in order to visit.
You can bring a camera, however, note that there will be places where you will not be allowed to use or bring your camera - particularly at military checkpoints and in the infiltration tunnel.
You should bring snacks (or buy some from a gift shop) because the wait times could be somewhat unpredictable.
Otherwise, bring your wallet, wear comfortable walking shoes and appropriate clothes for both hot weather and visiting war memorials.
READ NEXT:
DMZ Tour Timing: What You Should Know
Once you book your guided DMZ tour, you should know a few important things about timing:
Meeting Point in Seoul: You must arrive at your meeting point for pick-up in Seoul 10 minutes before departure.
DMZ Entrance: Your exact entrance time to the Korean Demilitarized Zone will only be confirmed on the day of your tour by your tour guide. All tour groups are subject to specific entry slots on a first-come-first-serve basis. So, expect to have to wait around for some time.
Order of Visit: Your tour likely includes different stops, like the third infiltration tunnel, the Dora Observatory, etc. Since the timing of entry to the infiltration tunnel is subjective, your tour guide may change the order of what you visit to make the best use of your time.
Overall, listen attentively and respectfully to your tour guide. They know from experience how to move smoothly through the checkpoints and how to make the most of your DMZ tour.
To help avoid confusion, each tour bus has the name of the guide, and each tourist wears the guide’s name on their visitor badge
How To Choose Which DMZ Tour To Book
If you're booking a regular DMZ tour from Seoul, then I definitely recommend you book online with GetYourGuide as they have proved reliable to me over years of travel. They also offer free cancellation on most DMZ tours up to 24 hours ahead, which provides you with good flexibility in tour date plans.
Note that, on average, your DMZ visit will be a half-day tour - leaving around 7-8 AM and returning around 1-3 PM, as it really depends on your DMZ entry time which is determined on arrival at the tourist information centre. So even if it's considered a "full day tour" at 6-7 hours, you'll likely be back (but tired!) by mid-afternoon.
Whether you choose the DMZ Tour with the Peace Gondola or the DMZ Tour with Suspension Bridge, they are about the same in the end, just one different stop. It seems that all DMZ tours include Dora Observatory and the third tunnel, which is good because these are the most interesting stops.
You can also consider a half-day tour that includes meeting a North Korean defector for a more interpersonal experience.
Finally, if you have flexibility with your travel in Seoul, you can consider the more difficult-to-book, but unique, experience of a guided tour to the Joint Security Area (JSA) - you can find more information on that below.
Book Your DMZ Tour from Seoul, South Korea:
Common Questions About Visiting the Korean Demilitarized Zone (DMZ)
In this section, I'll answer some frequently asked questions about visiting this enigmatic North and South Korean border region, such as who can go and how, whether it's dangerous and ethical, and more.
Inside the tour bus taking us around the DMZ from Seoul
The walking path to a DMZ museum after taking the Peace Gondola
A photo taken through binoculars at Dora Observatory in the DMZ shows North Korean military standing guard on a small watch tower
A small DMZ museum next to the third infiltration tunnel shows images and models of the Joint Security Area (JSA)
Taken from the carpark near Dora Observatory, the building says “End of separation, beginning of unification”
Is the Korea DMZ Tour Worth It?
Yes, absolutely. The demilitarized zone (DMZ) should be part of the Seoul tours or itineraries you create when visiting South Korea's capital. If you have any interest in understanding modern-day Korea, Korean history and the Korean War, curiosity about North Korea, or even just understanding conflict and peace, this tour will help give you unique insight and perspective.
That said, it is definitely a very commercialised experience. In the average group tour, you'll be with 20-40 other tourists, following directions from your tour guide, and understandably limited in what you can see and do. Still, it is the only way to experience the DMZ and it is the closest I felt to experiencing and feeling the legacy that is the separation of North and South Korea. It was thought-provoking and helped me expand my understanding of peace and conflict, and I am grateful for that.
Overall, the DMZ offers a strange and complex blend of tourism, history, culture and emotion. Don't be disheartened by the heaviness of the topic at hand - a day in the DMZ, surrounded by lush green landscapes, is pleasant and is a great opportunity to understand, reflect, and share hope for reconciliation.
KEEP READING TO PREPARE FOR YOUR TRIP TO SOUTH KOREA:
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